Around
the World
Narrative of Trip Experience
I write this positive review to encourage everyone, especially those with impairments, to consider the adventure of a lifetime. For those wanting detailed information about accessibility on this cruise please see the end notes. My Mother and I have been on several land tours around the world, also on a Princess cruise and land tour through Alaska and were on the RC Freedom in 2007 the week it was caught in a tropical storm in December. I have yet to take a cruise being able to sun on an open deck more than two days in succession. This background is important regarding our excursions.
We were looking at cruise tours through Asia when we decided this was a better fit and exotic enough. We had no idea it would be so wonderful. We took an excursion in every port except one and they were very worthwhile. We booked everything ahead of time, based on research, and through RC tours. No doubt we paid more than those who wing it when they get off the ship. But, we are more vulnerable than most people and I like not being solely responsible for getting back on the ship before the last tender departs. For me, the excursions make the trip. We’ll only do this once so get every experience available. For us, a cruise ship is safe and convenient transportation through an area land tours cannot reach. This was an ideal way to see Patagonia without hiking.
We had an overnight in Buenos Aires, embarked on Jan. 18 then sailed to Montevideo, Peurto Madryn, Port Stanley, Cape Horn, Ushuia, Punta Arenas, Straight of Magellan, Chilean Fjords, Puerto Montt and debarked in Valparisio on Feb. 1, 2009. Fourteen nights on the ship was relaxing. Briefly, the Radiance of the Seas has been in service since 2001. It is a beautiful, comfortable sized, well maintained ship. The ship had something for everyone and stayed healthy. There was a daily Wi activity – ski jumping and tightrope walking is fun to watch on a pitching ship! Everything was up to RC standards and we enjoyed many of the common areas. The covered solarium was a great haven on inclement days.
Speaking of the weather; we expected everything including the worst. We expected to not reach the Falklands, and to be sea sick for a day around Cape Horn. Indeed we had a fabulous day on both accounts. A few days on deck were rather aggressive. We had at least 15 foot seas some days. One night we had Category 2 (120 mph) winds. This did not seem to phase the ship or most passengers. Other than vacationing South Americans most other passengers were world travelers and well seasoned cruisers. Don’t let the weather scare you away. Pack for warm sun and cold rain. It changes instantly. Do be aware of a thin ozone layer, especially around Ushuia. We had a clue about this and brought SPF 50 with us. Some did not and were burned so badly their arms were bandaged. Fortunately the sun is behind enough cloud cover most days.
The rest of this review will highlight the ports and excursions. To note: we had an overnight flight from New York. Find a way to sleep most of the way and you’ll arrive in good shape with no jet leg landing mid-morning.
Buenos Aires. We landed with great expectations that quickly changed. English is not widely spoken in this large city. My Spanish is very poor – shame on me. By the time we arrived at the Hotel Emperador it was quite evident we were not in Kansas anymore. (Actually we come from New England.) RC had a hospitality desk and while milling around the lobby we began to hear several accounts of Americans who had gone out for a stroll and already been robbed in four different ways. This is a lovely Hotel in a safe locale. Learn a little Spanish and don’t wear the Rolex in public. Hotel staff spoke very little English. Sunday morning, about 200 embarking on our cruise were leaving while the end of a Princess cruise was coming in for the night. Semi-organized chaos. We went to a fabulous Tango show Saturday evening (Piazzolla Tango Show) which I highly recommend. This venue is lovely and accessible. Not all the shows are able to handle wheelchairs. We started to learn to just be patient and staff would make it happen, and happen well. Taking a city tour before getting on the ship Sunday afternoon seemed logical stateside, but not possible if using RC transfers. The ship sailed at 9:00 pm. We had a leisurely morning and transferred person and luggage to the ship mid-day. Embarkation was easy and we reached our stateroom by 1:00 pm. By 1:30 we were back out on the city dock easily connecting with a private city tour (accessible van with driver and a local guide.) This is the one tour everyone should just wing based on your needs, interests and embarkation time. We enjoyed a lovely 3 hour custom tour of Buenos Aires and left the city with warm but cautious memories.
Montevideo, Uruguay. Day two is usually at sea, but this port was a short distance overnight and a world away. We instantly felt safe and enjoyed the short city tour. Uruguay (or Montevideo, I forget) boasts having the highest quality of life in all South America. Spending the day in this city would be a good choice. We opted for the day at the Estancia (La Rabbida.) This was a short, comfortable ride via motorcoach to a well appointed working ranch. Facilities, food, and hosts were wonderful. You gain a good overview of life here while hearing from the owners/family, taking a tour down to the river, watching sheep shearing and enjoying authentic barbecue during a small Gaucho show. Most guests enjoyed the tour through a portion of the 350 acres via a hayride. I was accommodated with two other guests in a 1929 Ford –which was a hoot in of itself. This excursion is suitable for virtually anybody.
Puerto Madryn, AR
We had a saying about this trip, “It’s all about the Penguins!” We
hoped and prayed we’d get to at least one colony and this was our best
shot because we were docked. Also, it was evident few of the tours would
be feasible for me. Here’s some real advice: when they mention the
road conditions in the tour description, pay attention. All our vehicles
throughout the trip were fine. The roads (and I use that term loosely) were
another matter. This is a trip theme that goes downhill literally and figuratively.
This was about two hours each way, one of which was over a dusty, bumpy,
gravel road. We did experience some dust coming through the vents. Avoid
this if you have a bad back or loose fillings. Despite my poor mobility I’m
pretty sturdy so this was not a problem. Once at Punta Tombo reserve we viewed
many thousand Magellanic Penguins with almost grown chicks.
Other than the Queen’s English on the Falklands, I don’t think
any of our drivers spoke any English. Yet this was a classic example of SA
hospitality… after unloading the bus our driver, unable to communicate
with me, wheeled me over rough terrain to an accessible boardwalk and viewing
area. I was so close to the penguins we had to stop to let them cross and
one pecked a little at my wheels. Others walked down paths through the rookery
to the ocean where the parents get food for the chicks. Facilities here were
fine for being a natural preserve. This particular tour is a good choice
for most abilities if you can be a little shaken along the way. Yes, the
penguins are worth the trip – the whole trip that is.
Port Stanley, Falkland Islands. Truly the thrill of a lifetime. This set of islands is so remote, so treeless and desolate, so dangerous, so inhospitable to tenders and just all around so unbelievable, I refer to it as a terrible beauty.
Sorry, I have to fill in the gaps still...
Accessibility in South America: Fellow passengers had a variety of issues
ranging from old age and poor health to individuals who were blind, deaf
and permanently disabled. Young or old everyone had a rich experience, probably
even the seeing-eye dog. I am a middle-age disabled woman with CP, under
150 lbs using a combination of a cane, rented scooter and manual portable
wheelchair. At home and work I only need the quad cane.
Much of this trip was accessible. There were plenty of ramps and curb cuts.
We found fully accessible bathrooms in the strangest out of the way places,
but availability is not reliable. We found the RC crew and staff wonderful
and always available to help. Tendering me in the manual wheelchair was never
an issue, even in relatively rough water. The ship is absolutely accessible.
I rent a scooter for speed and balance issues in high seas. If you have a
child in a wheelchair or an individual you often pickup/transfer I would
think you could negotiate many of the excursions and it would be worth the
effort. If you are a robust, tall individual confined to a power chair the
excursions may be limited. Don’t count them out though. Work with the
vendor to arrange for accessible lifts on buses. I think this could be done
often from what we saw. In fact, they are pleased to demonstrate their accommodations.
No doubt you could easily get through the airports in Buenos Aires and Santiago
and have great ship transfers. Don’t forget, many of this trip’s
highlights are seen from the ship: Cape Horn, Beagle Channel, Fjords, etc.
I know that Royal Caribbean and Princess have good accessibility reports.
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